After an overnight flight to Rome and a connection to Catania, we arrive at our hotel on the hillside above Taormina, with a view of Mt Etna in the distance on the right.
After a nap and a shower, Carmela is fresh and ready for dinner. (Taormina)
We don't have the energy to walk down to the center of Taormina for dinner - with the inevitable walk back up - so we head to a well-rated restaurant even higher than our hotel.
The view of Taormina from Chiesa Madonna della Rocca (Church of Madonna of the Rock) draws ambitous walkers up the trail (left) from Taormina. The city's ancient greek theater is visible on the top of the hill to the center/left.
Dinner at Al Saraceno on a terrace overlooking Taromina and backed by the hilltown of Castelmola.
Mt. Etna (center/left) and the hilltown of Castelmola (right).
The Euro 2021 soccer tournament is underway. Tonight's quarterfinal match between Italy and Belgium draws a small crowd at this outside bar. Italy advanced to the next round.
A couple enjoys the panoramic nighttime view of Taormina from Chiesa Madonna della Rocca (Madonna of the Rock).
A few switchbacks down the hill and we arrive at Villa le Terrazze Charming Rooms, our hotel for two nights in Taormina.
Taormina's Church of St. Anthony was built in 1330 and sits just outside the city's southern portal entrance gate (Porta di Catania).
Carmela's eyes are drawn to the shiny, wavy stuff hanging over Corso Umberto - the central pedestrian-only street of Taormina - as we walk past the city's 13th century Duomo.
In preparation for this year's Taormina Film Festival, the entire length of Corso Umberto was topped with shiny ribbons flapping in the wind. Carmela enjoyed the cooling gusts.
Taormina is a hilltown. Turning one direction off of Corso Umberto leads to stairs going up. The other direction, to stairs going down.
Piazza IX Aprile, the main square in Taormina is named for the date in 1860 when rumors came of the arrival of Giuseppe Garibaldi in Marsala, a town in western Sicily, to start the liberation of the island from the Bourbon domination. [He actually arrived a month later.]
Enjoying Taormina's Piazza IX Aprile.
Carmela prepares to walk the red carpet for the Taormina Film Fest (July 27 - Aug 3, 2021)
Entitled "Back to shooting", the Taormina Film Festival's urban installation glittery ribbons did intrude on photos of all the major landmarks.
Traditional ceramic Moorish Head pots of Sicily. (Taormina)
Taormina's central Corso Umberto is a kilometer long and its entire length was shaded by the surprisingly loud, flapping ribbons. According to the artist, "The urban installation, with its movement, the sound produced and the reverberation of light, pays homage to the art of cinematography."
Taormina is the ritziest town in Sicily, but it's hilltop setting and stunning views make it worth a visit.
We reach Taormina's northern portal on the other end of Corso Umberto.
The 14th century Palazzo Corvaja was once home to the Sicilian Parliament.
A bike painted in the style of the traditional carrettu Sicilianu (Sicilian cart)
We've walked enough to earn our first Sicilian lemon granita. Many guidebooks say Bam Bar makes the best in Taormina. Its outdoor seating allows for plenty of people watching.
Built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC, the ancient theatre of Taormina is one of the most stunningly situated theaters in the world, with a backdrop of the Ionian coast and Mt. Etna.
The view from Taormina's ancient theatre. The central avenue of Corso Umberto runs from left to right thru central Taormina on the right of the photo. Mt. Etna is in the distance in the center.
A helpful tourist from Romania helped Carmela navigate the terrain atop Taormina's ancient Greek theatre.
Carmela enjoys the cooling gusts of wind from the top of Taormina's ancient theatre.
Art for sale. (Taormina)
Enjoying a full day in Taormina.
The Triskelion is the three-legged woman that is the emblem of Sicily. First adopted in 1282 by the Sicilian Vespers, it is currently on the official flag of the autonomous Sicilian region. The woman's face is Medusa, who was believed to fight the forces of evil.
The Saracens (aka Moors) from North Africa swept through Sicily, renaming towns and building mosques and libraries in accordance with their Muslim beliefs. They seized Palermo in 831 and renamed it Balharm. It served as the capital of Arabian Sicily until 1072.
Mt. Etna was calm today, but became active a few days later. (Taormina)
Carmela admires the Moorish head art. (Taormina)
For lunch, we opted for a picnic lunch of a sandwich and olives from La Bottega del Formaggio at a bench in the nearby public gardens (Villa Comunale di Taormina).
Villa Comunale di Taormina - the city's public gardens - are a peaceful escape from the bustle of Corso Umberto.
When Florence Trevelyan - a Scottish woman - transformed the land into what is now Taormina's public park, she designed buildings - made with stones, wood and bricks - known as "the beehives" or Victorian follies.
It appears there's going to be a wedding today at Taormina's Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria.
Taormina's crenellated, Arab-influenced Palazzo Corvaja houses the tourist office and occasional exhibitions.
The northern end of Taormina's Corso Umberto was a refreshing wind tunnel causing the ribbons above to make so much noise that it was hard to hear each other speak.
Being short on sleep, we opted for the cable car (funivia in Italian) from Taormina down to seaside town of Mazzar�
Classic wicker seats in this Fiat 500 Jolly that's for sale. (Taormina)
A beautiful Saturday meant slim pickings for spots on the beach at Taormina's Isola Bella.
We didn't have our swimming clothes, but we waded over to Isola Bella. (Taormina)
The cool water on our legs was a welecome break from the heat. (Isola Bella in Taormina. Technically it's in the town of Mazzar�
A rare moment of calm on Corso Umberto (Taormina)
The ornately painted Sicilian carts - carrettu sicilianu in Sicilian - were introduced to the island by the ancient Greeks. Carts reached the height of their popularity in the 1920s. (Taormina)
A battle is taking place before this horse's eyes. (Taormina)
UNESCO is in the process of giving the traditional Sicilian carts a World Heritage Site designation as the "Icon of Sicilian Identity". (Taormina)
Musicians wait for the wedding to finish. They'll be singing traditional Sicilian songs in the piazza outside the Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria. (Taormina)
Typical scenes from Sicilian history and folklore, as well as intricate and colorful geometric patterns, decorate every detail of the cart, from the wheels to the sideboards. (Taormina)
The Bill Clinton of Sicilian folk music had fun singing to Carmela while waiting for the bride and groom to come out of the church. (Taormina)
I'd hate to know what collision insurance costs for one of these. (Taormina)
At first, I wondered if this was a ride arranged for a celebrity's dog. (Taormina)
Guests and curious tourists await the bride and groom outside of Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria. (Taormina)
Apparently this was an elderly Sicilian man and a Russian bride ... no comment. (Taormina))
They released a box of white butterflies. Unfortunately, the wedding was running 30 minutes behind schedule - per the harried wedding planner I spoke to - and quite a few of them didn't survive the wait in the box. (Taormina)
Animated version of the butterfly release (Taormina)
Singing and dancing in the piazza. (Taormina)
The happy couple ride out of town. (Taormina)
Traditional blushing Moorish heads of Sicily? (Taormina)
Due to Covid, there's a pent up demand for weddings. We saw 4 or 5 taking place today (Saturday) in Taormiina. This couple went for a more modern - though still classic - ride.
After a full day on our feet, we were ready for dinner by 6:30pm ... very early by Italian standards. We joined the staff of the restaurant - in the background - who were eating before (most) customers arrived. (Top of staircase to Palazzo Ciampoli in Taormina)
We began our trip-long tradition of starting with a fresh insalata mista (mixed salad). It rarely let us down. (Taormina)
After dinner, we begin our long climb up the steps to our hotel.
Too tired to go in the pool. We relax on the terrace with a view of Castelmola.
Sicily is know for its tile art. This one has it all. Mt. Etna. Traditional Sicilian painted cart. Big, ripe lemons. (Taormina)
A Moorish head planter at our poolside breakfast dining table. (Taormina)
Traditional Sicilian-style art inside our hotel in Taormina. Not a huge leap from lawn jockey.
After driving to Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto to stay with Carmela's cousins, we took an evening trip to nearby Milazzo to visit the scenic, rugged coastline of its peninsula.
Capo di Milazzo is a thin peninsula in northeastern Sicily which extends into the Tyrrhenian Sea towards the Aeolian Islands, visible on the horizon. (Carmela at top of stairs)
We had trouble finding parking for restaurants along the coast between Milazzo and Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto and ended up at this beachside stand serving an array of exclusively meat-filled sandwiches. Carmela managed to get us a custom-ordered tomato and cheese panini that did the job.
An obituary announcements board in Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto (B-PdG)
New buildings mix with the old in B-PdG.
This place is still waiting for garbage pickup. (Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto, B-PdG)
B-PdG's Piazza San Sebastiano is actually a block north of the San Sebastian Cathedral.
After 20 years of abandonment, the fountain in Piazza Duomo ("Idria e Longano") was restored last year. It symbolizes the two most important rivers in Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto
Hometown opera-writing hero, Placido Mandanici, is memorialized in B-PdG's Piazza Duomo.
Carmela's parents were married in Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto's Duomo of Saint Sebastian. It is the second largest cathedral in Sicily.
The tile art on this pedestrian street depicts the fishing heritage of Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto.
That's the church of nearby Tindari (home of the 'black madonna') in the distance.
Cod, mussels, clams and stock fish available at the Old ('Vecchia') fish store. (B-PdG)
Another obituary board outside this old home in B-PdG.
Large cobblestones still pave some of the streets in downtown Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto.
The Church of San Giovanni Battista (John the Baptist) dates back to 1635. (B-PdG)
An outdoor, electric-lighted shrine with a figure of Padre Pio inside. (Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto)
Colorful door in B-PdG. You have to say the full name "Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto" to avoid confusion with Spain's Barcellona. It's a long name to say!
The main event of our trip was to attend the wedding of Sofia - the daughter of Carmela's cousin, Maria Rosaria - on the beach near Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto.
The setting on the beach, with gusts of wind blowing the white canopies, made for a beautiful wedding.
Carmela, Sofia and Maria Rosaria
Carmela and her cousins: Maria Rosaria (mother of the bride), Antonino and Sandro
Much fun was had with the caricture artist.
Carmela was pleased with her caricature.
We got to bed at 4am after the wedding. Then caught a 1pm hydrofoil to the Aeolian Island of Salina. Carmela relaxes at the sofa on the grounds of Hotel Ravesi in the town of Malfa.
After a nap, we set off for a walk around the town of Malfa, situated on the northern coast of Salina.
One of the two large volcanic cones that tower over the island of Salina. They are covered with ferns, poplars, chestnut trees and typical Mediterranean plants such as caper bushes and prickly pear cactus.
Malfa's port is filled with fishing boats, not yachts.
Most of the ports on the Aeolian islands have what used to be caves - now constructed - to store the fishing boats. (Malfa, Salina island)
Walking back up from the port of Malfa (Salina)
The extinct volcano, Monte dei Porri, serves as a stunning backdrop to the town of Malfa. (Salina Island)
This place is available to rent. It's got amazing views and easy access to beach, Spiaggia dello Scario. (Malfa, Salina)
Nobody's renting it right now. I think we did better by staying at a hotel in the still-quiet town of Malfa.
The beautful people start with aperitifs on the lounge bar terrace overlookng Spiaggia dello Scario. (Malfa, Salina)
In the Hellenic Age the island of Salina was named "Didyme", a Greek name which refers to the two mountains as "twins".
The advantage of Sicily as a destination during the pandemic is that we could always comfortably and reliably eat outside, generally on a terrace with panoramic views. (Malfa, Salina)
We got a half-liter of the house red wine, served with (and in) a smile. (Malfa, Salina)
Marinated anchovies - or any kind of anchovies - are a must-have when visiting Sicily. (Malfa, Salina)
We'll be walking home in the dark from La Pinnata Del Monsu Trattoria (Malfa, Salina)
The central square of Malfa is alive with fans watching the Euro 2021 semi-finals between Italy and Spain. Italy wins and advances to the finals!
Italy hasn't won the title since 1968 and the excitement is palpable. (Malfa, Salina)
Malfa's Piazza of the Rose Compass. Salina's town of Malfa got its name in the 12th century when some families from Amalfi moved here.
We took a morning bus (3 euro round trip) to the remote village of Pollara, where many scenes from the 1994 movie Il Postino where filmed.
We walked down from the bus stop to reach the old fishing village in Pollara where Il Postino was filmed
Maybe a little overkill on the Il Postino related stuff. (Pollara, Salina)
Pollara's fishing village - used in the opening scenes of Il Postino - is a picture perfect spot for a dip.
Ramps lead up this way and that to storage spots for the fishng boats. (Pollara, Salina)
Pollara, Salina
Carmela cools off in the water (center) in Pollara. (Salina)
It was a hot day and a bit of a walk down to Pollara's beach. Thankfully there was a shop selling cold drinks.
Swimming pool-like calm. (Pollara)
Plenty of pleasure boat visitors to Pollara's harbor.
A snack bar at Pollara's beach rigged up this basket to deliver fresh supplies.
Salina is known for its capers. The plants grow wild all over the island.
The beach under this cliff also featured prominantly in Il Postino, but the erosion from all the visiting tourist boats has left only a yard or so of pebble beach between the cliff and the water. (Pollara)
The home where the poet Pablo Neruda stayed in Il Postino is a private residence. But after seeing a tour group walk off the property, we made the visit ourselves. (Pollara)
Carmela waits for the mail. (Pollara)
VIDEO: Carmela reenacts a scene from Il Postino. She drew some looks as she spoke old-school Sicilian dialect to him. (Pollara). Click here to see video
This cafe in Pollara plays "Il Postino" every night at 6 pm. We'd watched it again before we left for Sicily, but did enjoy our lunch here before catching the bus back to Malfa.
"Take bread away from me, if you wish, take air away, but do not take from me your laughter. ... when I open my eyes and close them, when my steps go, when my steps return, deny me bread, air, light, spring, but never your laughter for I would die." Pablo Neruda. (Pollara, Salina)
Back at Hotel Ravesi in Malfa, we settle in for relaxation at the pool.
Carmela looks out to our next destination ... the island of Stromboli.
Various birds frequent the infinity pool for a chlorinated drink. (Malfa, Salina)
Carmela makes the most of the pool. (Malfa, Salina)
Our hotel was located right next to the Chiesa dell' Immacolata and Malfa's central piazza. A peaceful spot where everything is in walking distance.
Fish and octopus art outside the Malfa pescheria (fish store).
The fish is fresh on the Aeolian Island of Salina.
A walk around Malfa before dinner.
Capers are flower buds. This one managed to make it to bloom. (Malfa, Salina)
A bike planter at Hotel Signum. (Malfa, Salina)
The colorful back alleys of Malfa. (Salina)
Downtown Malfa. (Salina island)
The next day - our 27th wedding anniversary - we took the bus to the village of Rinella on the southern side of the island.
Rinella has a pleasant beach with just-the-right-size gray pebbles, instead of sand or larger stones.
Calm, warm and crystal clear water at Spiaggia di Rinella made for an ideal swim.
As it's a 45 minute ride from the main port town of Santa Marina Salina, Rinella's beach is much less crowded.
Lobster traps at the port of Rinella. (Salina)
Fishing boats on the ramp above Spiaggia di Rinella.
I'd rate this the best beach we visited on this trip to Sicily. (Rinella, Salina)
The weather was consistently in the mid 80s with moderate humidty. Cooler than home had been, but the water was still a welcome relief. (Rinella, Salina)
There are stories of unswimmable conditions due to swarms of jellyfish. We were fortunate and didn't encounter any. (Rinella, Salina)
A joyful 27th anniversary on the beach in Rinella.
There's a convenient bar with cold drinks (right) at the back of the beach. (Rinella, Salina island)
Caves excavated into the cliff and once used as shelter for Rinella's fishing boats.
Fishing boat. (Rinella, Salina)
Capers growing out of the wall of a building in Rinella.
This place has the look of a movie set. (Rinella, Salina)
Fueling up in Rinella.
A couple we'd met at the restaurant on our first night in Malfa suggested the unique ricotta granita served at Pa. Pe. R� Glicine ( Pa. Pe. R�th Wisteria) in Rinella. We stopped in for lunch.
Hats off at Pa. Pe. R�(Rinella)
You cannot visit the Aeolian Islands and pass up the opportunity to have the region's distinctive Pane Cunzatu. It's on my list of 10 foods I'd want to be served if I were about to die. (Rinella, Salina)
You can't visit the Aeolian Islands and pass up the opportunity to have the region's distinctive Pane Cunzatu. It's on my list of 10 foods I'd want to be served if I were about to die. (Rinella, Salina)
Pa. Pe. R�famous ricotta and sweet-caper granita. The salty caper powder and the candied capers give the milky ricotta granita just the right sweet and salty finish. It sounds weird but tastes extraordinary. I think I dream about it.
Classic blue Vespa 50. (Rinella, Salina island)
Someone's getting carried away with their Vespa helmet. (Rinella, Salina)
I'm telling you. Movie set. (Rinella)
We head to the bus stop in Rinella. Almost all of the tourists we encountered in Sicily were Italian tourists and a few Germans. Only two or three American couples during our entire trip.
A car ferry arrives in Rinella. Only one vehicle got off and two got on.
For our 27th anniversary, we decided to try the Michelin-star rated Hotel Signum's restaurant. But first we had an drinks (margarita for Carmela, negroni for George) with panoramic views from their lounge bar terrace. It was all pleasant enough, though the music was sleep-inducing. (Malfa)
Up and coming Chef Martina Caruso has apparently made name for herself and her gourmet menu at Hotel Signum. Her spaghetto con alici e finocchietto (anchovy and wild fennel greens) was okay, but we were unimpressed overall. The tomato on the appetizer had no taste. If you can't find a ripe tomato ... just don't. (Malfa, Salina)
The next morning, we had a much more aggreable meal at Cafe Malvasia. Our go-to spot in Malfa's main square near our hotel. Someone had bought out their entire supply of croissants, but they made a steaming new batch that were ready in 15 minutes.
After a 20 minute taxi ride to Santa Marina Salina, we had time to kill before our hydrofoil to Stromboli.
Nobody's fishing during the day here in Santa Marina Salina.
Santa Marina Salina is the main port and largest town on the island.
In 1997, during our first trip together to Sicly, we visited Panarea. It's now the poshest of the Aeolians. We decided to skip it this time and head back to Stromboli, which we'd also visited in '97.
Known as the "Lighthouse of the Mediterranean", Stromboli is an active volcano. Only a third of its volanic cone is above the water.
No cars on Stromboli, only the little Piaggio Ape vehicles. We take a taxi ride in one from the port to our room.
Electric golf carts are also in use. That's the tiny island of Strombolicchio ("Little Stromboli") in the background.
I reserved a room at Agriturismo Solemare in the northern neighborhood of Piscita on Stromboli. We had a two floor home and several decks to ourselves.
Bougainvillea in bloom. (Stromboli)
I like that they didn't remove the box to paint it blue. (Stromboli)
When life gives you more lemons than the lemonade you can drink ... (Stromboli)
The nearest beach is Spiaggia Lunga, a long stretch of black sand, beyond which there aren't any more homes.
Stromboli's volcano has been more active the past few years, with several hikers being killed by eruptions. Its worst eruption in recent times was 1930. They estimate this side of the island would not fare well if a similar sized eruption took place today.
In memory to a lost son of Stromboli.
Large eruptions and earthquakes can lead to dangerous tsunamis. The entire island is marked with escape routes to higher waiting areas.
The hosts at Agritourismo Solemare produce honey on the roof of their home.
A carrier pidgeon at Agritourismo Solemare shares a room with rabbits and chickens. (Stromboli)
Little shrines turn up all over the place in Sicily. This one in a wall along Via Vittorio Emanuele, the main road thru town on Stromboli.
Grocery store. (Stromboli)
Ingrid Bergman and Roberto Rossellini lived together in this rusty-red house while filming the movie Stromboli in 1949. Their liaison provoked a scandal in the film world, as both were married to others at the time. It's now being auctioned for sale.
After the deaths in 2019, Stromboli required guides to accompany people wanting to hike up to the top of the crater. It's a strenous climb - which we'd done in 1997 - so we decided to hike to the Observatory restaurant and to take a boat ride to view the eruptions.
Chiesa di San Vincenzo Ferreri. (Stromboli)
The piazza in front of Chiesa di San Vincenzo Ferreri is the high point in town and its terrace serves as a gathering spot to enjoy views of the island and the Tyrrhenian Sea.
This is the main road thru Stromboli. You can see why there are no cars.
A colorful home near Trattoria Ai Gechi. I was hoping to have dinner there, but hadn't made reservations and they were fully booked. (Stromboli)
We ended up enjoying a pizza at Da Giovanni's Pizzeria and Gastronomia. After dinner, our waiter suggested we try Amaravigghia, a Sicilian bitter from Catania made with Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (a citron variety known as "Buddah's Hand") and other fruits and herbs.
Carmela views Strombolicchio from the terrace of our room and from her seat at Da Giovanni's ... the later being their artwork.
Anna, our host at Agriturismo Solemare, prepared a fresh breakfast with homemade marmelade, crostini with eggplant and tomoto toppings, cheese, bread, freshly squeezed OJ, espresso and large pickled capers (in Carmela's hand).
And very ripe fruit. Anna suggested we take the leftovers back to the room to keep in our refrigerator for a snack. (Stromboli)
Strombolicchio as seen thru one of the Greek-isle like whitewashed buildings that line the rocky coast of Stromboli.
The Piscita neighborhood on the northern side of Stromboli is quieter than the main town towards the port.
No eruptions at the moment. (Stromboli)
There was just a small eruption. Bougainvillia is everywhere on the Aeolian Islands. (Stromboli)
Carmela and I set out for a walk up to Osservatorio to see if we can see a few eruptions.
Chiesa di San Bartolomeo (Stromboli)
Having completed their Jan 6 raid of the U.S. Capitol, Antifa has moved their insurgency to the island of Stromboli.
Hiking up to the Osservatorio restaurant on Stromboli.
We're starting to regret not bringing water. (Walk to Stromboli's Osservatorio)
A colorful shrine in the middle of nowhere on the switchback trail to Osservatorio.
Most people visit the Osservatorio at sunset to see the eruptions glowing in the dark. They offer rides from the edge of town in the evening, but we decided to walk. (Stromboli)
Our first order of business upon arriving at Osservatorio is to buy some ice cold Cokes. Well ... after a photo. (Stromboli)
VIDEO: We sat at a table on the terrace and wait for the eruptions. They happen every 15-20 minutes. It'd be better at night, but still exciting to see and hear. (Stromboli) Click here to see video
The pose of someone who's tired of posing. (Stromboli)
One more. Come on ... the view! (Stromboli)
Caper plants. (Stromboli)
The waves were a bit too big for us to swim at Stromboli's black sand beach (Spiaggia Lunga, "Long Beach"). That's wild fennel growing on the right.
Pedestrians need to be ready to stand aside. (Stromboli)
Stromboli
We could have also taken a daytime boat trip around Stromboli, with a stop at Strombolicchio, but we decided to walk during the day and take an evening boat trip.
The kitchen of Bar Ingrid at Piazza San Vincenzo wasn't making pizzas or sandwiches, but they had a by-the-kilogram selection of savory vegetable dishes that we paired with bread for a tasty lunch. (Stromboli)
Not only is Antifa on Stromboli, but so is the Freedom for Palestine movement.
Main Street of Stromboli,. a bit outside of the 'downtown' area.
Anna - our host at Agriturismo Solemare - arranged with Antonio to pick us up and take us to the port for his evening boat trip to view Stromboli eruptions after dark.
The beach next to Stromboli's port is made of larger black pebbles, rather than the black sandy beach near our room.
Antonio prepares for us to board. (Stromboli)
The Osservatorio restaurant that we walked to earlier is visible (white buildings at top of seaside cliff on the right). Stromboli's eruptions spew their material out to one side of the island and down to the sea. It's known as "Sciara del Fuoco" (Scar of the Fire").
As our boat takes us around to the Sciara del Fuoco side of Stromboli, we see several eruptions.
This shot shows the depression of Sciara del Fuoco, where the lava and lapilli from Stromboli's eruptions fall down to the sea. The Osservatorio restaurant where we hiked earlier is the small white building at top of cliff (center-left). The inhabited part of the island is around to the left.
As the sun began to set on Stromboli, I had to switch the camera to manual focus on infinity, since autofocus wasn't going to work. Add the boat rocking on fairly large sea swells and it's not ideal for getting pics of the eruptions.
No green spot appeared as the sun dropped below the horizon. (Stromboli)
VIDEO: This is a frame from a video. (Stromboli at night from a boat). Click here to see video
And once it really got dark. Forget trying to get a photo and just enjoy the show. (Stromboli)
After the boat trip, we needed a quick dinner. We went with pasta topped with ricotta infornata at Da Luciano's. (Stromboli)
Anna's breakfasts at Agriturismo Solemare are delicious, but many of the dishes are maybe a bit too savory for breakfast. (Stromboli)
Main St. (Stromboli)
The mean streets of Stromboli.
Even the trash in the back of the trucks is colorful. (Stromboli)
Sicilian Moorish head ceramics and tiles. (Stromboli)
Carmela is now partial to mandorla (almond) granitas, while I stick to the refreshing lemon granita. (Stromboli)
Taxi driver waits for a call. (Stromboli)
Note the propeller tucked in at the rear of this boat. (Stromboli)
Untangling the fishing net. (Stromboli)
La Corvina means "The raven". This seagull didn't get the message. (Stromboli)
Fishing is still an active business on Stromboli.
Dry dock on Stromboli
Take shade whereever you can get it. (Stromboli)
The port of Stromboli
A rainbow of Piaggio Ape taxis parked at Stromboli's port.
Bougainvillia in bloom, Piaggio Ape trucks, and white-washed homes. (Stromboli)
Side streets of Stromboli.
We were able to get a seat for lunch at Trattoria ai Gechi ("the gecko"). (Stromboli)
... and enjoyed yet another great meal. (Stromboli)
Nocellara del Belice olives are one of the primary kinds used for EVOO in Sicily. Most EVOO's in the US pale in comparison.
The eggplant, tomato and anchovy pasta dish at Trattoria ai Gechi was perfectly al dente and topped with grated ricotta infornata (baked ricotta).
The view from our lunch spot at Trattoria ai Gechi. (Stromboli)
It was hot and a bit more humid today. This spot along Via Vittorio Emanuele was shaded and notably breezy. (Stromboli)
Masks are required indoors (seldom needed, except for a grocery to buy water) and public transport. So it's masks on for the hydrofoil from Stromboli back to Milazzo.
We arrive back to Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto in time for dinner with Carmela's family and then settle in to watch the Euro 2021 final between Italy and England. Painfully, England takes the lead 1-0 after only 2 minutes of play.
Game faces. England:1 - Italy: 0. They regain their optimism when Italy ties the score. And ebullence arrives after Italy wins the game on penalty kicks (3-2) and the celebratory car and truck horns of B-PdG blare thru the night.
Graffiti of Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto.
Having worked in telecom, I'm always excited to see payphones. (Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto)
No need to visit the newstand to know that Italy won the Euro 2021 final. (Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto)
In 1998, the artist Emilio Isgr�s asked by his native town to create a public monument. The work consisted of an enormous, seven-meter orange seed placed in front of the old train station, with the aim of revamping that area. (Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto)
The Moors really made their mark in Sicily. (Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto)
Maria Rosaria (Carmela's cousin, center) and her younger daughter (Maura) took us to get our COVID-19 rapid antigen test at a pharmacy for the flight home and then to get some granita in downtown Barcellona-Pozzo di Gotto.
Carmela's maternal grandparents (? Brigandi and Antonina Munafo) lived here. When we visited in 1997, there was an old wood oven in the back for baking bread. It may still be there. (Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto)
Carmela, her brothers, and cousins still own this land, which had orange trees when we visited in 1997. The church next to it complained that it was a fire hazard, so Carmela's cousin hired a crew to clear the property. (Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto)
Carmela's maternal grandparent's home (right) and garden (left).
Carmela's cousins live in a four-story building. Sandro hosted us in his home on the top floor during this visit and we were happy they have an elevator. (Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto)
Our flight from Catania to Rome left on Tuesday afternoon, so we decided to spend our last night in Sicily closer to Catania in the scenic and peacful hilltop village of Savoca.
Savoca is popular enough that it does have its tourist shops.
Savoca is especially popular with film buffs wanting to visit settings used in scenes of "The Godfather". It's important enough to Savoca's tourism that they've memorialized Francis Ford Coppola in the main square of the town.
In "The Godfather", when Micheal Corleone is hiding out in Sicily, he meets Apollonai's father here outside Bar Vitelli and asks for her hand in marriage.
Here's the scene from the movie. The bar existed prior to the movie, but Coppola wanted it named Bar Vitelli after the character in the movie. Afterwards, they kept the movie-version of the name. (Savoca)
A narrow road loops up and around the hilltop village of Savoca.
Savoca
We stopped here briefly in 1997 (left), but stayed the night this time (right).
Capers growing out of the wall of this old place. (Savoca)
Michael's wedding to Apollonia was filmed at Chiesa di San Nicolo.
Not too much has changed, though they added a wall for the road that continues on up around the town. (Savoca)
Stopping at Chiesa di San Nicolo during our evening walk around Savoca.
Keystone face. (Savoca)
The centuries of wall repair in Savoca is its own kind of art.
After a week on the Aeolian Islands, it was nice to finish the trip in the cool, quiet hilltop town of Savoca.
This Triskelion is crying for some reason. (Savoca)
No shortage of large churches in the small town of Savoca. (Chiesa Madre di Savoca)
Rosemary (Savoca)
It's impossible to convey in pictures the look of an entire hillside of prickly-pear cactus. (Savoca)
Tour buses apparently arrive during the day - not sure if that's true in Covid times - but the town of Savoca becomes peaceful in the evening.
In 1989, Savoca commissioned these bas-relief ceramic tile panels along the street below the town's central piazza.
Neighborhood chat. (Savoca)
We had our last Sicilian dinner on the terrace of Osteria del Borgo (Savoca). After salads, we had the classic Sicilian dish (Pasta alla Norma) and asked for a bowl of grated rictotta infornata.
A fun-to-drive winding road leads down to the coast from Savoca.
No visit to Savoca is complete without checking out the crypt underneath the Convent of Capuchins Monks.
The Crypt in the Convent of Capuchins Monks in Savoca was built in the 1600s. It contains the desiccated corpses of rich, high society doctors, lawyers, abbots, and poets. When we visited in 1997, they'd been recently vandalized with spray paint and have since been moved from the wall niches into cases.
Here's a photo I snapped in 1997. See the green spray paint on skull to the right. (Savoca)
Michael Corleone finished his walk and arrived at Bar Vitelli (right) in this scene from "The Godfather". The road they're walking is now paved and has public parking spots where we left our car. (Savoca)
Here it is today. (Savoca)
Carmela has one last almond granita before we leave Sicily. I'll be trying to make it when we get home.
When we visited Bar Vitelli in 1997, the owner was very proud of her antique Carpigiani gelato machine. She said Coppola tried to buy it from her, but she refused. (Savoca)
A room dedicated to "The Godfather" inside Bar Vitelli. (Savoca)
My arty play on my arty shot from Savoca.
Petersen's Guide to Italian Salami. (Grocery store in Rome where we bought some yogurt and fruit juice for our early pre-flight breakfast)
![Piazza IX Aprile, the main square in Taormina is named for the date in 1860 when rumors came of the arrival of Giuseppe Garibaldi in Marsala, a town in western Sicily, to start the liberation of the island from the Bourbon domination. [He actually arrived a month later.]](images/DSC06404-Pano-edit-resize.jpg)
